by Andrew Lucas

Treated gemstones are a fact of life in today’s jewelry industry. Without the use of treatments—or enhancements—there would be a much smaller supply of attractive gemstones in the market. They give designers and manufacturers a wider range of materials to work with and provide lower prices for consumers. The problem is lack of disclosure. The consumer should have the opportunity to know exactly what they are buying. The trade press and the media-at-large have documented a widespread lack of treatment disclosures. When the public finds out about treatments from sources beyond their own jewelers, this can create resentment and lack of trust.

Inadequate or absent government regulations add to the confusion. Some argue that non-permanent treatments should be disclosed, but that permanent treatments do not have to be. Likewise, some claim that if the treatment has no effect on value, or if it is not readily detectable, it does not need to be disclosed.

Not everyone agrees on how durable various treatments are and under what conditions durability should be tested. When jewelry professionals talk about value, are they talking about the value difference between the finished treated product and the same-quality untreated product, or the value difference of the same product before and after treatment? Would customers pay the price difference between similar-looking untreated and treated gemstones if they knew about the treatment?

Adding to the confusion surrounding disclosure is the fact that in order for retailers to disclose treatments to consumers, they must be aware of the treatments themselves and this is not an easy task today, due to the proliferation of treatments and the vast range of gemstones that can be enhanced. Disclosure must happen at all levels of the supply chain to ensure complete transparency.

The safest policy for ensuring the public trust is a trained sales staff. The disclosure must be smoothly worked into the sales presentation so as not to raise a customer’s objections. Treatment should be presented as a positive feature, not a negative.

GIA educational materials define treatment as “any human-controlled process, beyond cutting and polishing, that improves the appearance, durability, or value of a gem.” Disclosure terminology should not be vague or overly general, like “most colored stones are enhanced.” This not only denies transparency to the customer, it is poor salesmanship. Customers should be given basic information about any treated gem they are buying, including: treatment, how it affected the gem and any special care instructions

Disclosure can enhance the positive images of wholesalers and retailers alike. It can be a marketing tool that enhances a jeweler’s reputation for professionalism and high ethics.